I started surfing 39 years ago.

I still remember the first time I stood up on a surfboard. I was hooked instantly, and from that moment on my mission in life was simple, figure out how to surf every single day. At least until I had responsibilities. I was only 11, so I had some time before that happened.

I would hound my parents every single day to take me to the beach. If they couldn’t, I’d bug my neighbor Bob, who surfed. Poor guy probably regretted ever telling me he surfed because I was relentless. Looking back, I was a pretty annoying little grom, persistent but annoying. But hey, I knew what I wanted and I wasn’t afraid to ask for it, over and over again, haha.

*Bob and I with our catch of the day. | photo by: Bill Bennett*

It paid off though. I ended up surfing most days, sometimes even twice a day. Bob would surf too, and when he got out of the water, he’d pull out his old video camera and film me for hours. Then later, we’d go back to his house, pop the tape in, and he’d show me what I needed to work on. Those were some of the best days. I had no idea at the time how fortunate I was.

That’s when the addiction really took off, times one hundred. I didn’t want to do anything that didn’t involve surfing. My diet was basically Cocoa Puffs, surf magazines, and surf videos. I’d skate the sidewalk pretending it was a wave and just live in that world all day long.

About two years in, I met another surfer named Mike Hinn. He was from Hawaii and had moved to California to be with family. We hit it off right away, and soon our little surf crew started to grow. Bob and Mike were about four or five years older than me, and I was this skinny little grom they took under their wing. They pushed me hard to get better, and looking back now I’m so grateful for all the time, coaching, and encouragement they gave me. They didn’t have to do that. They just did.

Mike started surfing some local contests and told me I should try one too. I remember saying, “No way, dude.” I was nervous just thinking about it. But after some back and forth, Mike and Bob convinced me to enter. I was 13 going on 14 and had only been surfing a little over two years, so it was a total shot in the dark.

The night before that first contest, I barely slept. I didn’t know any of the guys I’d be surfing against, but I knew of them. They were really good, and they’d been doing contests for years. I felt like I was completely out of my league.

The next morning, Bob and Mike gave me a pep talk before I paddled out. They told me not to worry about the other surfers and just go out there and have fun.

Long story short, I surfed my first contest and got third place. I was beyond stoked. That little plastic trophy might as well have been a gold medal. It lit a fire in me. I kept surfing contests after that until I was about 19. I did a few more here and there after that, mostly to hang out with friends and heckle each other from the beach, haha.

Then life shifted. I had kids. I chased the so-called American dream. If you’ve read my other blog posts, you probably know how that went. Somewhere along the way, I realized I was building a life that didn’t feel like mine, so I started unbuilding it. I began getting rid of what didn’t bring joy or peace.

I’ve let go of a lot of things, habits, and unhealthy relationships. But one thing that’s never left me is surfing. It still brings me that same joy and peace it always has. It’s the one constant in my life that never fails to reset me.

Now, at 50 years old, I’m surfing more than I have in years. I think of Bob and Mike often when I paddle out. They’re both gone now, but I still feel them out there. I swear I can hear them sometimes, hooting when I catch a wave, laughing when I fall. It brings tears to my eyes just thinking about it. The ocean is full of their energy.

*Now, at 50 years old, I’m surfing more than I have in years. | photo by: Brody Frances*

They gave me such a gift. Not just the love of surfing, but the reminder to keep it simple, to have fun, to stay connected to what matters.

Next week, I’ll be doing a surf contest in San Diego. It’s been decades since my last one, but the same feelings are there, the nerves, the excitement, the unknown. Only this time, I’ve got some experience and a lot more perspective.

And I can still hear those same words Mike and Bob told me as a kid before that first contest, words that still mean everything today.

Just have fun, Arun.

So that’s what I’m gonna do. ❤️

Just Have Fun

When You Stop Rushing, Life Appears.